Cost To Install Hardwood In Dallas

What Is The Cost Of Installing Hardwood Flooring in Dallas?

Let me guess—you've already gotten three quotes, and they're all over the map.

One guy said $2 per square foot. Another said $5. And the third guy never called you back. After doing this for 23+ years, welcome to the most frustrating part of getting hardwood floors.

Contractors who lowball you to win the job, then 'discover' problems on install day and jack up the price. It's the oldest trick in the book, and it's why getting a quote is confusing, overwhelming, or both.

Here's the thing: asking "how much does hardwood flooring cost?" is like asking "how much does a car cost?" Well... are we talking about a Honda Civic or a Tesla? Leather seats? Paint protection? See where I'm going with this?

I could throw out a number like $7 per square foot and hope you bite. But that would make me just like every other flooring contractor who gives you a price, then shows up and suddenly "discovers" your subfloor needs work. (What a surprise! 🙄)

I don't play those games.

Instead, I'm going to show you exactly what goes into a hardwood flooring quote so you actually understand what you're paying for. That way, when you're comparing quotes, you're comparing apples to apples—not apples to "we'll-tell-you-the-real-price-later."

The 10 Things That Actually Determine Your Hardwood Flooring Cost

1. Engineered or Solid Hardwood Flooring

Two completely different beasts here with different price tags. 

Engineered hardwood is typically less expensive to install because it doesn't need plywood when going over concrete. Plus, most engineered floors come pre-finished from the factory, which means no sanding, no staining, no finishing, and no waiting around for days while coats of polyurethane dry. A typical engineered project takes 2-5 days.

Solid hardwood also takes longer installation times. For example, a solid hardwood project typically takes two weeks due to the longer acclimation time required for the material.

Bottom line: Know which one you want before you start getting quotes, or you'll end up comparing completely different projects.

2. Width Of Boards

Wider boards (7 inches+) look stunning. They also cost more to install.

Why?

More adhesive is needed. Heavier to handle and cut. More labor-intensive. It's not a huge difference, but it's noticeable enough to mention when asking for a quote.

Here's a pro tip: Be specific about what you want. Don't let the contractor assume you're getting 3-inch boards when you've got your heart set on 9-inch planks. That's how you end up with surprise upcharges on install day

3. Demolition

Got old flooring that needs to come out first? That's extra.

And I'm not just talking about the demo itself—someone's got to haul all that old tile, carpet, or wood away and dispose of it properly. Some contractors include this in their quote. Many don't, so make sure you ask.

Fair warning: Removing old tile is WAY more labor-intensive (read: expensive) than pulling up old carpet. If you've got tile, expect demolition to be a real line item.

4. Adhesive

When installing engineered hardwood, adhesive is everything. And no, not all glues are created equal.

Your flooring manufacturer has an approved adhesive list for a reason—using the wrong glue instantly voids your warranty. 

Here's the dirty little secret: some contractors use cheaper adhesive to boost their profit margins. You'll never know...until your floors start popping up a year later, and by then...good luck finding them.

In case you're wondering, this is one of the primary ways to get you a lowball quote.

Make sure your quote specifies manufacturer-approved adhesive. It's not sexy, but it's the difference between floors that last decades vs months.

5. Baseboards 

Spoiler alert: This is almost never included in quotes, which is how that $4/sq ft suddenly becomes $6.

The installation cost never includes removing and reinstalling baseboards and/or quarter rounds. 

This is the time to decide whether to reuse your existing baseboards or get new ones. Please ensure that this item is listed separately.

6. Moisture Testing 

Let me be crystal clear: If a contractor doesn't moisture-test your concrete slab before installing hardwood, they shouldn't be installing hardwood flooring.

Period.

This isn't my opinion. It's in the National Wood Flooring Association guidelines.

It's in every manufacturer's installation instructions. And it's there for one very good reason:

Excess moisture is the #1 cause of hardwood flooring failure.

Too much moisture in your concrete slab = a very expensive call back to the flooring guy (who will probably ghost you because he didn't do it right in the first place).

If your contractor skips moisture testing, you automatically forfeit your product warranty.

So yeah, it's kind of a big deal.

For us, moisture testing isn't an upsell — it's standard because doing things right the first time is always cheaper than doing them twice.

Tired of contractors who ghost you after cutting corners? We stand behind our work—because we're not going anywhere. Get your detailed quote here.

7. Sealing

What happens if your slab tests high for moisture? Do you just give up on hardwood floors forever? Nope.

You seal it.

We're talking about a penetrating concrete sealer that creates a barrier between the moisture and your flooring. It's an extra step, yes—and it'll add $1-$3 per square foot depending on the sealer and the condition of your slab.

But here's the thing: this isn't an optional luxury. It's insurance. And it's a whole lot cheaper than replacing warped floors six months from now.

8. Plywood

Many homes today—yes, even new construction—don't use plywood upstairs. Instead, the builders cheap out and install unsuitable particle boards instead.

Please ensure the subfloor is plywood if you plan to install hardwood upstairs; otherwise, you'll be in for a surprise when they return and inform you that they need to charge you extra for plywood.

❌ Improper Installation = $18,000 Mistake

Does your quote account for the need for new plywood in your upstairs area?

9. Float/Flattening

Some have heard of floating the floor, but what about flattening? 

It's a term I made up because the industry term "leveling" is incorrect. When we float your concrete slab, we don't make it run like a horizontal line. This isn't possible due to the slab's pouring and natural topography. Instead, we fill the voids to eliminate low spots so your concrete is flat.

This is done by using a concrete patch compound; the amount used will depend on the condition of your slab. For example, you may only need a few bags of float compound if the area is slightly uneven or dozens if it's particularly bad.

Companies charge differently for this—and here's the kicker: many won't even tell you until they're already on site. 'Oh yeah, your slab needs floating. That'll be another $800.00' Fun, right?

10. Furniture Move & Reset

Do you have a house full of furniture? Someone's gotta move it. And then put it back.

Most contractors will move lighter items, but if you've got a baby grand piano or a slate pool table, you're going to need a specialist—and that's extra.

Ask upfront what they will and won't move. The last thing you want is the crew showing up on install day and saying, "Yeah, we don't do pool tables."

Ready to Get This Done Right?

No shortcuts. No surprises. No "oops, your subfloor needs work" on install day.

Just honest, transparent pricing from a team that knows their craft.

Call (469) 952-1685 or contact us for your detailed, no-BS quote.